Paddling the Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit has been on our bucket list for years. There is something appealing about being in the mountains, without having to “backpack”.

We’re not alone in our desire to paddle this circuit. It’s so busy, that only 50 canoes (25 people) are allowed to start each day.

So, imagine our surprise when we went on the BC Parks booking website at the end of March and found our August dates available. (We were already out west for a wedding, so the timing was perfect!)

Back on the Bucket List

As it turned out…we need to put it back on the bucket list. On Day 3, Bill had some unsettling health worries, and we made the difficult decision to turn around.

The good news is that we’d taken Day 2 off so weren’t too far. The bad news was that we had to re-do the 2.9km portage from Day 1.

The awesome news is that, after a trip to the fantastic emergency department in Quesnel, there was a solid diagnosis and an easy fix for Bill.

Unfortunately, he was advised not to return to the backcountry for a few weeks.

This blog covers a few things that might make the trip more enjoyable if you plan on going. Or at least give you a sense of what to expect.

(I realize that we only did 6km of the 116km circuit…but we certainly had some ah-hah moments that we’d wished we’d known ahead of time.)

Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit Overview

The Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit is a 116 km route linking 10 lakes with approximately 11 km of portages. The entire circuit typically takes 6 to 10 days to complete, although there is a shorter West Side 30km out and back route that can be paddled in 2 to 4 days, with no difficult portaging.

The circuit is located in Bowron Lake Provincial Park, about 120 km east of Quesnel, British Columbia. It feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere! Quesnel is between Kamloops and Prince George.

 

Tip 1: Bowron Booking – Group Size and Rules

Booking is done through the BC Parks online system, which opens each year in early November for the following season. Only 50 people (or 25 canoes) are permitted to start per day. Spaces fill quickly, especially for peak dates between late June and early September.

• Fees: Expect to pay a $60 reservation fee per person for the full circuit, or $30 for the West Side route, plus an $18 reservation fee per boat. You’ll also need to budget for rental gear (canoe, cart) if you do not bring your own.
• Group Sizes: Most parties are limited to 6 people. Groups of 7–14 need a group reservation, which involves designated group campsites and a fixed 8-day/7-night schedule. Only 1 group is allowed on the circuit at a time.
• We ran into 3 families on the first portage, and they loved that they didn’t have to plan. BC Parks basically assigned them a campsite for each of their 7 nights. Pros and cons, but this mum was pretty happy with that arrangement.
• No domestic pets.
• No commercial beverage containers (bottles and cans). Although tin cans are allowed.

Canoe Tripper Tip

Unlike the limits put on other BC parks where you can only book 4-months in advance…you can book your dates on the Bowron as soon as the online system opens in November.

Tip 2: Portages and Carts

The full circuit includes 10 portages totalling about 11 km. Portages range from a few hundred meters to around 2.9 km, with several very long ones occurring early in the route. Most portages are kept in good condition, but they can become muddy and more challenging after rain.

To “Cart” or not to “Cart”

“Everybody” uses portage carts in the Bowron…almost everybody. Interestingly, when we told the cart rental lady we were from Ontario, she said “no-one from Ontario rents a cart”. And the one family we met without carts had Ontario origins. They also double-portaged and had young people who could jog back for the second load.

Everyone else we saw did it in a single trip with a cart. Which meant they had one pack in the canoe on the cart, and one pack on each of their backs while they pulled/pushed the canoe.

For us, we decided to use the cart, but still ended up doing two trips. We were out for 11 days and our gear is heavy due to CPAP batteries, fuel, tripods, extra battery packs for the camera etc. To be honest, we were feeling our age and lack of peak fitness, so we thought it would be worth a try.  (More about that later.)

Cart Weight Limit – 60lbs (28kg)

Before you get all excited about loading all your gear and pulling it in the cart – there is a weight limit. 60lbs. (And believe me when I say that the canoe is heavy enough on the uphills.) The good news is that your “safety” and “health” gear, and paddles do not count in the 60lb limit.

So you can throw the following in the canoe, in addition to your 60lb pack.

•        Fist aid kit
•        Paddles, pfds, throw bags, painters, bailer etc
•        Axe
•        “Health” equipment. It’s at the discretion of the ranger, but we were able to put Bill’s CPAP machine and 15lbs of CPAP batteries in the canoe. Such a big help.

Carts can be rented from a few places, including the park. We recommend booking as early as you can. We ran into issues where one outfitter didn’t want to rent us a cart unless we rented a canoe as well. The cart’s axle must be 75 cm (30 in) or less in width. Wide tires help on rougher or muddy terrain.

Canoe Tripper Tip

The easiest way to tow the canoe is with a rope tied to the handle, with a big loop that goes over your shoulders like a sling. And if you’re Bill, you’ll buy foam pipe insulation for the rope so it doesn’t dig in to your shoulders and chest.

Anne pushed the canoe for the first portage. But decided to also create a sling attached to the handle on the back of the canoe so she could lean into it like a horse in a yoke.

Canoe Tripper Tip

Train for this trip! Pushing that *&^$% cart with a pack was way more exhausting than just portaging the pack. Having said that, there were paddlers older (and fitter) than us on the trail. Everyone seems to do OK. I think it's like giving birth. Everything is wonderful once it's all done.

Tip 3: Bowron Weather & Wind

Most of the route is in “Inland Temperate Rainforest”. Evidently, August is the “driest” month. Like any other mountain zone, weather on the circuit changes frequently and can include rain, wind, and cold nights even in summer.

• Expect daytime temperatures in the teens to mid-20s Celsius, but nights can drop near or below freezing. Sudden storms are possible at any time.
• Strong winds are common, especially on larger lakes in the afternoon. We were advised to get on the water early, and paddle along the shore with all the campsites in case the wind came up suddenly and we had to head to shore.  

Tip 4: Orientation and the Big Weigh In

A mandatory orientation session is held at the Bowron Lake Registration Centre before starting.

This session covers safety, what wildlife to expect (bears, moose) and park regulations. The orientation is quite good, with a 20 minute movie and conversation with a park ranger.

And then you get your gear weighed. (Remember the 60lb max in the canoe for the cart?) There is a big old brass weigh scale beside the parking lot.

Rangers told us quite a few people were “over weight” the day we started…which meant they all had to find space on their backs at the last minute to carry that extra gear.

Canoe Tripper Tip

The website says that orientation is done between 8am and noon. Consider doing it the day before your trip starts. Then you can hit the trail before the crowds.

On the day we started, I felt like every one of the 50 people and 25 canoes showed up at 8am sharp for weigh in and orientation…one party at a time.

We were very glad to be able to walk right by them…and then say hello as they all passed us on the trail. (Did I say we were slow?)

Tip 5: What to expect in this well-managed BC Park

The Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit is a very “controlled” park with amenities you won’t see in an Ontario wilderness park. In our experience, all the regulations create a peaceful wilderness experience. There is a reason it ranks “Top 10” for canoe tripping destinations.

• Designated campsites with tent pads. Which are “shared”. i.e., campsites have any where from 2 to 13 tent pads. (I hear that the ones with lots of tent pads are spread along a beachy site.) Sites are first-come, first served and it’s expected that everyone is welcome if it’s the end of the day. As noted above, group parties get assigned their own specific sites.
• Pit toilets (yes, real outhouses) at every campsite.
• Metal bear lockers at every campsite. (less chance of a surprise visit from both grizzly and black bears)
• Seven sites have warming cabins. It can rain a lot, and people make good use of these to dry out.
• There are stashes of cut and split firewood along the route
• Emergency phones are placed at ranger stations. Although, for peace of mind, an emergency SOS device is recommended. There is no cell service in the park, not even in the front-country.

Such a feeling of solitude

We camped on Kibbey Lake the first night. We knew that we only had one 2km+ portage in us per day. (Hence the 11 day trip.) What we didn’t anticipate was the desire to take Day 2 off. I woke up with a migraine and we were both pretty tired.

But I gotta tell ya. That day was amazing. The huge, resident osprey did numerous passes ovee the lake throughout the day.

The two families of loons were as entertaining as expected…well into the night. (We actually saw the fuzzy teenagers the next day.) And I had a mink scurry along the shore within 15 feet of me at dusk.

And of course, the view down the lake as showers came and went were stunning.

Paddler’s Tip-Figure out how to spend as many days as you can on the Bowron so you have time to savour it. I hear the fishing’s also pretty good!

Tip 6: Logistics - Getting There 

Bowron Lake Provincial Park is reached by road, approximately 8–10 hours from Vancouver. The final stretch involves a 27 km gravel road from Wells/Barkerville. Nearest full services (groceries, gas) are in Quesnel, 2 hours away.

We stayed at the Gold Pan Inn in Quesnel. A clean, basic 2-star hotel with big! rooms/kitchenettes with vinyl floors. Perfect for last minute food prep, packing, and post trip drying out. I had the tent fly hanging from the balcony railings.

Have I peaked your interest in the Bowron Circuit?

Everyone who paddles the Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit loves it. It feels remote, there’s camaraderie on the portages (the very long, tough portages), and the land is stunning.

We met many canoe trippers who keep coming back…bringing their friends and other family members. It’s also great for kayakers because you can use a cart.

If we had one piece of advice, it would be this. Especially if you’re not super fit (like us.)

The people who were happiest on the portage were “light” and fast. So find that balance between bringing enough gear to be safe and warm in cold wet weather, and lightweight meals vs more traditional canoe trip fare.

And weigh the pros and cons of more days with more weight (food, fuel), and a shorter faster trip.

If you go…

Visit the Bear River Mercantile & Bowron Museum to check out the historical artifacts and get last minute gear. (And a ton of craft supplies!)

I have on the advice of a 10 year old boy, that nearby Barkerville is worth the visit for the candy store and ice cream shoppe. He was also playing a harmonica he’d bought there.

While the lakes are all named for gold-rush Europeans, it's important to recognize “As a lingering reminder of the First Nation presence in the area, many of the landmarks and features in and around the park have indigenous names, particularly in the Carrier Language. Some examples are Mount Ishpa (Carrier for "my father"), Kaza ("arrow") Mountain, the Itzul ("forest") Range, the Tediko ("girls") Range, and Lanezi ("long") Lake." (Wikipedia)